Underpressing: Preparing Your Garment for Sewing
Meta Description: Underpressing is the preparation process before sewing, where fabric pieces are pressed to ensure proper shaping, alignment, and ease of sewing. Learn how underpressing can improve your garment’s structure.
What is Underpressing?
Underpressing is a crucial preparation step in garment construction that involves pressing the fabric pieces before they are sewn together. This process is typically done before joining seams, attaching facings, or assembling the garment to ensure that the fabric pieces are correctly aligned and shaped. Underpressing helps to smooth the fabric, remove wrinkles, and make the sewing process easier.
The purpose of underpressing is to make the fabric easier to work with by ensuring that the edges are crisp and well-formed, making it easier to sew neat seams. It also helps ensure that the final garment holds its shape and looks more professional.


Why is Underpressing Important?
📌 Improves Fabric Shape
- Underpressing helps give the fabric the right shape and structure before sewing. For example, pressing seam allowances and darts ensures that the fabric pieces align properly, which results in a cleaner, more structured finished garment.
📌 Prevents Wrinkles and Uneven Seams
- By pressing the fabric before sewing, underpressing helps remove wrinkles and creases that may interfere with the sewing process. This ensures that the fabric pieces align correctly, preventing uneven seams or puckering when the garment is assembled.
📌 Ensures Precise Stitching
- Underpressing allows you to achieve accurate stitching, especially when dealing with complex designs or multiple layers of fabric. Pressing the pieces beforehand ensures that the fabric remains flat, which helps achieve smooth, straight seams.
📌 Facilitates Seam and Hem Construction
- When working with seams, hems, or pockets, underpressing helps to set the seams and hems in place. This provides better control during sewing and ensures that edges are crisp and neat when the garment is finished.
How to Underpress Your Fabric
📌 Tools You’ll Need
- Iron: A steam iron with adjustable heat settings is ideal for underpressing. Ensure the temperature is suitable for the fabric type.
- Pressing Cloth: A pressing cloth helps protect the fabric from direct heat and prevents shiny marks, especially on delicate fabrics.
- Seam Roll: A seam roll can be used for pressing small seams or areas that are difficult to press flat.
📌 Steps for Underpressing:
- Set the Fabric on the Ironing Board: Lay your fabric pieces on the ironing board and align them properly to avoid distortion. Smooth the fabric with your hands to remove any excess wrinkles.
- Press Seams and Darts: Press seam allowances open or to one side as needed. Press darts in the direction of the stitching to ensure the garment holds its shape.
- Use Steam: Apply steam to the fabric to relax the fibers and help set the shape. If your fabric is delicate, use a lower heat setting to avoid damaging the material.
- Press Facings and Hems: Underpress facings and hems before attaching them to the garment to ensure smooth application during sewing.
- Check Alignment: After underpressing, double-check the alignment of your fabric pieces to ensure they’re properly positioned for stitching.
Benefits of Underpressing in Garment Construction
📌 Cleaner Finished Garments
- By pressing pieces before sewing, underpressing helps create cleaner, crisper seams and edges, resulting in a more polished finished product.
📌 Helps Achieve Professional Results
- Underpressing is a technique used by professionals to prepare fabric for assembly. It helps ensure that the garment fit and finish meet high standards.
📌 Makes Sewing Easier
- Pressing fabric pieces before sewing makes the process smoother, as it prevents fabric from shifting or bunching up while you sew. This results in neat, accurate stitching.
Illustration of Underpressing Process
Here is an illustration showing how underpressing is done before sewing. The image demonstrates how fabric pieces are pressed to ensure proper alignment, shape, and smoothness, making the sewing process easier.

Conclusion: The Role of Underpressing in Garment Construction
Underpressing is an essential step in garment construction that helps create a smooth, well-aligned base for sewing. By pressing fabric pieces before they are sewn together, underpressing ensures that seams are crisp, edges are clean, and the fabric behaves properly. This simple yet effective technique contributes significantly to the overall quality and professional appearance of the finished garment.